Classic Car Restoration – Automotive Paint Color Sanding

By John Truman, September 4, 2010 8:24 am

This clip demonstrates color sanding an automotive finish to achieve a show-winning, smooth, flat finish. From the TV show "Classic Car Garage" with Jeff Shade and Tom Horvath. See more video or buy the entire series this video is taken from at www.ccgtvonline.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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5 Responses to “Classic Car Restoration – Automotive Paint Color Sanding”

  1. ccgtvonline says:
    September 4, 2010 at 8:52 am

    CaatingStonez - All good points. This video is a few years old. The techniques Tom uses worked very well for him in his business and on his show cars. Your points however are very good and make sense. I have had many comments from people who use the flat part of the pad with great results. Thanks for your input.

  2. CastingStonez says:
    September 4, 2010 at 9:15 am

    1. Heat is generated at the outer part of the pad more than the center section of the pad. Why? the outer part of the pad is rotating faster than the center? FACT
    2. Product gravitates to the center part of the pad? FACT
    3. Lack of product of ANY portion of the pad, creates HEAT? FACT
    3. Heat generated leads to BURNING paint. FACT
    3. Conclusion: Tilting the buffer and using the outer edge which has less product will increase the possibility of BURNING paint. FACT

  3. svr73 says:
    September 4, 2010 at 9:27 am

    agree about diminishing abrasives are out of date but not flat buffing

  4. Sleepy56chevy says:
    September 4, 2010 at 10:15 am

    If you're good, you could buff flat or at an angle......it's all in the person with the buffer. Experiment on an extra fender or door.

  5. ccgtvonline says:
    September 4, 2010 at 11:06 am

    According to Tom Horvath, flat buffing, particularly with diminishing abrasives is out-of-date.
    Buffing on the edge is faster and consistently yields better results, particularly when using a single product system like System One.

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